Surrounded by a loop in the river Dronne some
27kms north of Périgueux, the little town of Brantôme with its 2000 inhabitants is referred to as
"the Venice of the Périgord". The towns pride is its Benedictine abbey which dates back to 769
or 786. Charlemagne is said to have donated to the brand new monastery, relics of Saint Sicaire, one of the victims
of the massacre of the Holy Innocent. Devastated by the Vikings a few years later, it was rebuilt towards the end
of the tenth century. The town and the abbey developed thereafter. It was here that Du Guesclin. who had come to
see off the English, learned that he had been made High Constable. From 1538, the Abbot of Brantôme, Pierre
de Mareuil, had a number of structures built, including a right angled bridge over the river, an elegant Renaissance
house and several resting places in the Monks garden. His nephew who succeeded him, Pierre de Bourdeille, is more
well known under the name of Brantôme. The abbey was conferred upon him in 1557. On his death. in 1614, Brantôme
Abbey had become the most prosperous in Aquitaine, although it was soon to decline. During the Revolution, its
rich library and the last seven monks were dispersed.
The white mass of
the abbey and Saint Pierre church border the Dronne and Boulevard Charlemagne. The church. which has both Gothic
and Romanesque aspects, has a double bay nave, crowned with 12th century cupolas, and a type of ribbed vault known
as "angevine" from the Gothic period. The building which can be visited today was fully restored in the
middle of the last century by the architect Abadie. In the chancel. illuminated by three bay windows, two sculpted
wooden panels face each other. A Romanesque capital used as a holy water basin and a splendid 14th century tablet
sculpture featuring the baptism of Christ may also be discovered. On the north side of the church, the 60mtr tall
Brantôme belfry is unquestionably the finest in Périgord. According to recent studies, it was erected
during the Carolingian or even Visigothic period. making it the oldest belfry in France. Formed by tour recessed
storeys, it features gables in its upper section. Crowned with a pyramidal stone roof, its various bay windowed
storeys also feature capitals sculpted with an antiquated style of leaves and interweaving. Only a gallery, a small
chapter house with flamboyant arches and ribbed columns, is left of the Renaissance cloisters. Access is gained
to the Benedictine abbey, now owned by the village, through this gallery. The 17th century buildings are open to
visitors. A fine traditional staircase without pillars leads up to two Large rooms. In the former monks' dorter,
the structural work in the form of an upturned hull is quite remarkable. Various exhibitions are held here. Inside
the abbey, a three part museum features significant prehistoric items, furniture and paintings, as well as the
strange mediumistic works by the painter and carver Fernand Desmoulin (1857-1914).Saint-Sicaire fountain,said to
have fertilizing virtues, is concealed behind the abbey as well as caves which provide evidence of troglodyte dwellings.
One of them includes sculptures of unknown origin, "The Triumph of Death" or "The least Judgment"
( late 15th century) and "The Crucifixion" 16th or 17th century). This cave has been developed into a
theatre.
A
few metres away, opposite Saint Roch tower, an elegant Renaissance
house with transom windows framed with pilasters and colonnettes
an(and whose door is blazoned with the coat of arms of Pierre de
Mareuil, guards the little angled bridge with starlings which spans
the Dronne. The bridge provides a splendid view of the abbey, the
paddle wheel and the foliage of the riverbanks. It also provides
access to the public gardens. the former "monks gardens", where
one can relax for a moment on the benches of the grand 16th century
resting places. The main town in Northern Périgord for tourism,
Brantôme also enjoys a full cultural life which culminates
in the summer with the Festival International de Danse Classique
(ballet) set up in 1958 by Jacqueline Rayet. The Cave of the Last
Judgement" provides a magical setting for this festival. bringing
together dancers and 1200 spectators tor a millennial rite the worship
of beauty. The abbey also houses the European centre for studies
of western spirituality. One kilometers from the town. a public
walk will take you to the fine Dolmen de la Pierre Levee (Dolmen
of the Raised Stone).
If you are looking for Restaurantes, Cafes and Places of Interest
in the Dorodgne try